Tarot FY680 Y6

I was not too happy with the end results with the hexa layout because I was expecting better video quality in 15mph winds. Prior to trying out the Y6 configuration I added the Sigma motor mounts to each arms which extended it about 4inch on each side. And I also changed the F30a SimonK flashed ESC to the Turnigy Blheli flashed ESC because I heard a lot of good things about it. I am not really sure what happen but 2 of the ESC fail in mid flight during my second test and luckily it was only 8 feet off the ground when I crashed it into a patch of grass. I ended up breaking 2 GemFan Carbon Fiber props and a Sigma mount. I think I might have been my fault for flying it because I did notice one of the ESC that failed was acting strange from the first day I mounted it.

Now I am on my third configurations with the same frame and I have to admit I really like this frame because it is so versatile. But it is still true what everyone says about the cheap clips, that keeps breaking. The good thing is that the arms still stay in place even if the clips are cracked. As long as you have the support for the upper and lower plates the clips seems to be fine cracked or not.

Right after I finished converting the frame to a Y6 I noticed how much smaller it is. I forgot to weight the frame before the conversion but right now it weighs 2625 grams and it includes the 5000mah 4s lipo plus everything you see in the pictures.

I had to move the GPS to the front because the rear arm is in the way. I have the Xaircraft gimbal for now but I will soon replace it with a custom brushless gimbal, once I get all the part from China.

I am glad I did not have to buy anything extra other than some nuts and bolts to mount the motors. I used the existing motor mount by taking half of the blue aluminum clamps and the motor plate. I use half the aluminum clamps because only one side of the clamp has a flat side where the motor plate sits on. And the other side is round. The only modification I did was drill out the holes on the clamps and motor plate from 2.5mm to 3mm because I did not have 2.5mm screws that is long enough. Then I used a M3x30mm screws to bolt it together.

Something I learned when putting the props on the motors. Make sure the prop on the bottom motor is right side up. Meaning the prop will be mounted facing up but in relations to the motor the props will be mounted with bottom facing the nut. In the end, the 2 props will have downward thrust but spinning is opposite directions.

This is the rear of the frame with the hard mounted arm that does not move.

A close up view of the non folding arm that use to be the side of the frame. So in order to setup this frame as a Y6 I rotated the frame 90 degrees. Because I rotated the frame 90 degree I had to drill new hole for the landing gears because it was facing the wrong direction.

Here is a view of the front left of the frame which has the 2 folding arms.

This is a close-up view of the front left arm with it locked in the open position.

Top view of the frame with the DJI naza in the center, Futaba RX in the rear and DJI BEC in the front left.

I never liked the carbon fiber folding legs that came with the frame so I used the landing gear that was on my Xaircraft x650 frame. This U shape legs are pretty much universal to most frames.

It is hard to see but I there is a blue distribution board in the middle of the frame where I power up all the ESC, BEC and Lights (soon to be added) from.

Here is the frame with the arms open in flight position.

And here is the arms folded.

I was kind of scared to see how much I have invested in this hobby but here is a breakdown of all the core items I purchased. The prices listed is what I actually paid.. There are a lot of items that I did not list because it would be too tedious list all the screw, heat shrink, cables, connectors, and etc. So I just listed the core items: